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Differences in Denim by weight
Samurai original denim starts from 15 ounce and increases up to 25 ounce.
However, it is not only just concerned about the heaviness; Samurai takes into account the climate,
nature of cotton, uneven yarn and then examines the traditional dyeing techniques,
density as well as the natural dye in producing our own denims.
After rigorous tests throughout years,
Samurai is now producing the denims that could have ultimate fading even in heavy ounces.
The Samurai original denims comprise a blend of traditional Japanese dyeing techniques
in weaving our denims for different models.
Capturing the essence of true vintage selvage denims can only be achieved using vintage machinery.
By dyeing the cotton yarn with only 100% all-natural indigo dyes,
the dyed yarns are turned into the coarse-weave selvage denim on slow-moving, vintage shuttle looms.
The average weight for these antique looms is 13 ounces, 15 ounces is manageable,
17 ounces is pushing it, 19 ounces and the machines are under pressure, 21 ounces is well......
While the resistance created noise at levels almost intolerable,
the weavers had to basically train the machines to handle the heavyweight threads attacking and passing through them. Great hardships and pain were endured to successfully weave the Samurai original denims.
OTOKOGI DENIM 15oz
This denim uses 100% Texas cotton which is famous for a "rough" cotton
due to its high amount of short fibers. Normally,
the short fibers are removed to make a smoother fabric,
but Samurai adds more short cotton fibers to make the yarn even rougher.
The result is a yarn that is highly uneven in size,
making the woven fabric very slubbed (irregular).
Tension of the weave has been maximized, therefore after washing,
the denim actually becomes more stiff and the weave even tighter,
resulting in a jeans with unprecedented "atari" (fading).
ZERO BUSHIDO DENIM 17oz
This denim is woven by hefty #5 size yarn in low tension using antique looms. With the lower tension, this 17oz denim comes out
with a rough surface as its signature.
The rough accent is even outstanding after the first washing.
As a result, it becomes the most popular denim in Samurai Jeans.
KIWAMI DENIM 19oz
The indigo dyed warp heavy #5 threads is woven
under the highest tension on vintage wooden shuttle looms.
This solid 19 ounce denim is the hardest one in Samurai Jeans.
It is even tougher than the 21 ounce and 25 ounce denim
because of its high density.
However, it is a well-balanced comfortable one
to try as your first heavy denim.
CHO KIWAMI DENIM 21oz
Woven on vintage wooden shuttle looms,
only the weaving craftsmen of the highest merit and
skill were able to tame the looms that
created tough denim over 20 ounce.
Their blood, sweat, and soul are symbolized by the strands
of red and gold lamé which run along
the selvage line of this 21 ounce denim.
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